Evan Breslow

Japan

Tokyo, Hakone, Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, Nara, Kamakura

September 2023

Twelve nights that moved constantly — Tokyo bookending loops through Hakone, Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, and Nara, with one full day carved out for a knife-making workshop in Gifu. Early autumn still felt like summer most days, and there was always something worth stopping for: a torii rising out of a lake, a temple deer walking straight up to you, digital art you waded through barefoot.

  1. An orange torii gate standing in a lake at the edge of a forest, its reflection rippling in the water below
    The floating torii, Hakone Shrine
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  2. A gold-leafed pavilion standing at the edge of a still pond, with pines in front of it and forested hills behind
    Kinkaku-ji, the golden pavilion
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  3. A sika deer standing on a stone path and looking at the camera, in front of a tall vermilion torii gate with a temple roofline visible beyond it
    A deer stops for a look, under the great torii
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  4. A sika deer standing on a mossy bank between two gnarled tree trunks, in front of a temple hall with white plaster walls, dark timber and a grey tiled roof
    A deer in the trees outside the hall
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  5. A tall, symmetrical avenue of trees meeting overhead, with a path and benches receding between the trunks
    An avenue of trees, somewhere in Japan
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  6. A hazy view from a mountain ridge over Lake Ashi and layered hills to the silhouette of Mount Fuji on the horizon, with the sun flaring at the top of the frame
    Fuji, from high above the lake
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  7. An ornate gold pirate-ship-style tour boat with red trim and rigged masts crossing Lake Ashi, forested hills behind it
    The pirate ship crossing Lake Ashi
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  8. A large bronze seated Buddha statue with a weathered green patina, hands folded in its lap, an offering of oranges set before it and forested hills behind
    The Great Buddha of Kamakura
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  9. A weathered wooden temple gate under a sculpted pine tree, with a large red paper lantern reading Hase-dera hanging in the opening
    The gate at Hase-dera
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  10. A raked white gravel Zen garden winding between mounds of moss and large upright rocks, with a stone lantern and a bamboo grove behind a stone wall
    A dry rock garden, somewhere in Japan
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Activities

  • Tokyo SkytreeTembo Deck and Tembo Galleria, the view over the whole city.
  • teamLab Planets, ToyosuThe digital art installation you wade through barefoot. It was a cool, unique experience.
  • Mt Fuji, Hakone, and Lake AshiFull-day bus and boat trip out of Shinjuku, past the floating torii at Hakone Shrine.
  • Knife-making with a certified swordsmith, GifuA full day away from the main loop, and worth it. This was one of the highlights of the trip.
  • Shizu-kokoro tea ceremonyThe last thing before the flight home, and a nice and relaxing way to end the trip.